In the latest edition of Monaco Life‘s Around the World series, Niki Borisova travels to Milan, the beating heart of Italy’s fashion and design scenes, and ventures out on a trip to the nearby Lake Maggiore.
Milan, forever a favourite destination for tourists seeking a blend of culture, gastronomy and fashion, is booming. It is currently one of the most sought-after locations for people looking to relocate in Europe, and is experiencing an uptick in visitors keen to explore its storied streets and sights.
This autumn, Monaco Life journalist Niki Borisova decided to follow the crowds and make the three-hour journey by car from the Principality to Italy’s style capital to see what all the fuss was about.
Vibrant food scene
The Brera district, known for its trendy vibe, has many excellent dining spots within an easy-to-manage radius.
First up is Rovello 18, a historic Milanese restaurant with family roots that earned its debut Michelin star in the 1950s. The restaurant exudes rustic charm with its wooden beams, stone floors, vintage décor and shelves of wine, which combine to create a cosy atmosphere perfect for an intimate Italian dining experience. Try the stracciatella with aubergines, tomatoes and black figs as a starter, followed by the classic Cacio e Pepe for main.
Another standout in Brera is Casa Fiori Chiari, located on Via Fiori Chiari. This stylish restaurant offers a modern take on Italian cuisine, focusing on fresh, seasonal ingredients in a chic setting. Monaco Life recommends sitting outside to make the most of the people-watching opportunities, but this can be tricky as the restaurant is always packed. The calamarata is exceptional: Mezzi paccheri with cacciaroli squid, red datterini tomatoes, taggiasca olives and caper powder.
The Trattoria Torre di Pisa is a long-established restaurant known for its traditional Tuscan cuisine. It has preserved its original 1960s charm with vintage wooden chairs, tiled floors and family-run warmth, and offers a nostalgic atmosphere that has remained unchanged since its opening. The menu is rich in authentic dishes like ribollita and bistecca alla Fiorentina.
Moving on, in the upscale Montenapoleone district, Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone is an institution that blends tradition with elegance. This restaurant is situated in the 16th-century Palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi and offers a classic Milanese menu. Monaco Life recommends the cotoletta alla Milanese, a signature dish that can be paired with a glass of Franciacorta.
Also located in the Montenapoleone district, Paper Moon Giardino is a favourite with locals and visitors alike. It’s a stylish restaurant offering modern Italian cuisine in an elegant setting, with a tranquil garden courtyard attached for casual and refined dining. The homemade pappardelle with tomato, cream and crispy bacon is a must-try.
Langosteria, located in the vibrant Navigli district known for its lively canal side atmosphere, is one of Milan’s top seafood destinations. Renowned for its high-quality, Mediterranean-inspired dishes, the restaurant offers an intimate ambiance with dim lighting, dark wood accents and plush seating.
Raise a glass to Milan
Milan’s bar scene has plenty to offer too.
N’ombra de Vin in the Brera district is a popular bar known for its vast selection of wines and inviting, cellar-like atmosphere.
Just a short walk away is Vesta, which also serves as a restaurant, but Monaco Life visited just for the cocktails. The establishment has a modern, minimalist interior with a laid-back vibe, and the bar, with its marble counter and well-stocked shelves, is a great spot to enjoy a drink.
After a day of shopping on the famous Via della Spiga, the Polo Bar by Ralph Lauren is the perfect place for a drink break. The bar is inside the Ralph Lauren store and features a distinctly equestrian-themed décor. The charming courtyard, surrounded by greenery, offers a serene and relaxing place to unwind away from the city’s busy streets.
Luxury stays
Casa Cipriani Milano, part of the iconic Cipriani brand, has brought its signature style to Milan with an exclusive members-only club. Rooms start at €2,500 a night and offer access to upscale amenities like the upstairs living room where guests can gather after dinner to enjoy a classic Cipriani Bellini or Negroni, with live DJ sets from Tuesday to Saturday. The restaurant on the second floor features a sprawling terrace overlooking Giardini Indro Montanelli, providing a beautiful setting for lunch or dinner—if you’re a member or have the right connections.
Galleria Vik Milano, part of the Uruguay-based Vik brand, is more of an art hotel experience. Located right near the Duomo, each room is uniquely decorated and some feature unobstructed views of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, you can visit the restaurant and bar, Vik Pellico Otto, to enjoy traditional Vik wines from Chile—Monaco Life recommends the La Piu Belle red—and indulge in their excellent cuisine while overlooking the Galleria.
The Portrait Hotel of the Lungarno Collection is housed in a historic building and offers an upscale atmosphere. The hotel recently welcomed Beefbar, originally from Monaco, and Rumore, a jazz club that has quickly become a popular spot for live music. The hotel bar, tucked away in a library-like setting, provides a quiet space to unwind.
See more: Beefbar marks major milestone with the opening of its 40th restaurant
A trip to Lake Maggiore
One of the great things about Milan is how accessible the city is to other destinations, such as Lake Maggiore. Trains departing from Porta Garibaldi station go directly to Stresa or Baveno, both located on the shores of Lake Maggiore, and the journey takes about an hour.
Lake Maggiore can easily be explored as a day trip from Milan, or you can stay overnight in one of the charming lakeside towns. In Stresa, a great option is the Hotel La Palma, known for its rooftop bar and stunning lake views. If you prefer Baveno, Hotel Splendid offers a serene lakeside location with a private beach.
No visit to Lake Maggiore is complete without some island hopping, especially to Isola Bella, one of the most famous spots on the lake. The island is home to the impressive Palazzo Borromeo, a Baroque palace filled with lavish rooms, grand tapestries, and intricate frescoes. The palace gardens are equally stunning, with terraced landscapes, rare plants, and even white peacocks roaming the grounds.
Next, hop over to Isola Pescatori, the Fishermen’s Island. For lunch, Monaco Life recommends stopping at Ristorante Verbano, where you can enjoy fresh, local seafood while taking in lake views.
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