Inside JOYA Monaco: What makes diamonds and natural gemstones truly special?

JOYA Monaco returned from November 13th to 16th at One Monte Carlo, uniting 15 designers under one roof for four days of artistic showcase.

Princess Charlène visited the fair herself on its very first day, exploring a collection of archaeological, vintage, antique, and contemporary pieces. The event, held under the High Patronage of Prince Albert II, marks the second edition of JOYA.

‘The right destination for unique brands’

Among the exhibitors is Greek jeweller Nikos Koulis, marking his 20-year anniversary in the industry. Dino Giannakopoulos, Commercial Director of Nikos Koulis, spoke to Monaco Life about why JOYA was chosen for this milestone.

“We’re very excited to be here at Joya,” said Giannakopoulos. “We find Joya to be a really great destination for global presentation for unique brands.”

What sets JOYA apart from other international trade shows, according to Giannakopoulos, is its unique atmosphere. “It’s intimate in the size of it, it doesn’t feel overbearing. We do a lot of trade shows and fairs and we just felt that JOYA was the right one for us this year.”

Photo of Nikos Koulis, owner of Nikos Koulis brand, photo by Monaco Life.

Couture jewellery with a technical twist

Nikos Koulis’s approach to jewellery design is distinctive, beginning with the selection of exceptional gemstones and incorporating innovative materials that challenge traditional techniques.

“It all starts with the stones for Nikos. For example, you’ve got Colombian emeralds set with a pavé of diamonds here, all set in white gold, and then the bracelet itself, the cuff, is aluminium, so it’s incredibly lightweight.”

Meanwhile, another standout piece, described by Giannakopoulos as “the princess necklace,” is from Nikos’s Wish Collection and features pigeon blood rubies—the most prized colour for this gemstone. “This is from Nikos’s Wish Collection. So you see beautiful pigeon-blood rubies, natural, untreated, set with diamonds and brilliant diamonds here with pear shapes, all set in white gold.”

The ruby necklace, photo by Monaco Life.

The importance of untreated stones

The most important aspect of Koulis’s philosophy is the use of natural, untreated gemstones, a -not so minor- detail that significantly elevates the value and rarity of each piece.

“Coloured stones are untreated,” Giannakopoulos explained. “You can get rubies that are treated, you can get sapphires that are treated. They enhance them with oils. There’s nothing wrong with it. But it’s different when you have a beautiful emerald that’s untreated. Just the colour of it. And you see all the facets in it. And it really is about the jewel coming to life.”

This commitment to natural stones is what draws collectors to the brand. “The fact that this came from nature like this, is what makes it a special gem.”

The ring features a natural emerald gemstone, photo by Monaco Life.

Diamonds: nature’s toughest element

When asked about what makes diamonds special, Giannakopoulos offered a perspective rooted in both history and geology.

“If you think about the history of a diamond, it’s been around since the beginning of humanity,” he said. “As a species, we gravitate to them because they’re the most beautiful, toughest element on the planet in their natural, incredibly rare, state.”

The process of creating these pieces reflects an artists’s vision brought to life through exceptional craftsmanship. “Everything is crafted in Greece and it is this beautiful story of an artist creating what he dreams and what he imagines.” Giannakopoulos concluded.

Other pieces of his collection, photo by Monaco Life.

Beyond the commercial aspect, JOYA includes a programme of conferences, creative workshops for children run by the Museum of Anthropology and Prehistory of Monaco, and L’Escarboucle, the bookshop of L’École, School of Jewelry Arts.

The jewellery fair founded by Vanessa Margowski and Delphine Pastor-Reiss runs until November 16th and it’s open to the public

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Main photo credit: Frédéric Nebinger / Palais princier