Monaco scientists unlock coral’s ‘superpower’ for new Margy’s range

A groundbreaking skincare technology inspired by coral’s extraordinary ability to survive environmental stress has been unveiled in the Principality, marking the first commercial application of a scientific discovery developed entirely within Monaco’s unique research ecosystem.

Revelation, the new ultra-luxury skincare collection from Margy’s Monte-Carlo, is powered by a patented biotechnology complex that reproduces some of coral’s most powerful natural defence mechanisms – without harvesting or damaging a single coral.

The range is the result of five years of research bringing together Margy’s founder Margie Lombard, Monaco biotechnology company Coraliotech and the internationally recognised coral expertise of the Scientific Centre of Monaco.

At its launch in Monaco on Monday, attended by press and international influencers, Revelation was presented as more than a new collection. It represents a significant leap into the emerging field of biotechnology-led skincare and a breakthrough that Margy’s says will ultimately transform its entire product line.

For Dr Rachid Benchaouir, CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of Coraliotech, the project is also a first indication of what coral science could one day contribute to cosmetics, healthcare and longevity.

“We are only touching the surface,” Benchaouir told Monaco Life. “Margy’s and CoralGen²Complex represent the first proof of concept showing what coral can offer from a scientific perspective.”

“We have known about the extraordinary properties of coral for more than 10 or 15 years, but transforming that scientific knowledge into an application is new.”

Dr Rachid Benchaouir, CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of Coraliotech with Margie Lombard, Founder of Margy’s. Photo credit: Cassandra Tanti

Unlocking coral’s natural “superpower”

Coral has existed for hundreds of millions of years, surviving while permanently exposed to ultraviolet radiation, pollution, oxidative stress and dramatic variations in temperature and salinity.

Unable to move away from danger, it has instead evolved exceptionally powerful biological systems to defend, repair and regenerate itself.

This remarkable resilience became the scientific foundation for Revelation.

Rather than using coral as a conventional cosmetic ingredient, researchers studied the molecular mechanisms responsible for its survival. They then used biotechnology to reproduce and optimise selected coral DNA sequences under controlled laboratory conditions.

The result is CoralGen²Complex, an active ingredient created for Margy’s in Monaco and designed to transfer the protective potential observed in coral biology into skincare.

“Coral has developed extraordinary ways of protecting itself,” said Benchaouir. “The objective is to understand those mechanisms and see how they can be translated into benefits for human health and longevity.”

“We can reproduce in the laboratory the types of molecules we find in nature without destroying ecosystems. This is an entirely new concept, and it is something that can only be achieved through biotechnology.”

The process is entirely sustainable: no coral is extracted from the Mediterranean or any other marine environment. Biotechnology allows the molecules to be manufactured in the laboratory while leaving fragile coral ecosystems untouched.

Seven times more powerful than the human equivalent

At the heart of the breakthrough are two antioxidant enzymes found in coral: superoxide dismutase, known as SOD, and glutathione peroxidase, or GPX.

These enzymes help neutralise reactive oxygen species, commonly known as free radicals. When produced in excessive quantities by ultraviolet light, pollution and other environmental pressures, free radicals can damage cells and accelerate visible skin ageing.

In-vitro studies commissioned for the project and conducted on reconstructed human epidermis found that the coral enzymes significantly reduced the production of free radicals following ultraviolet exposure.

The results presented at the Monaco launch showed reductions of 61% with Coral SOD and 45% with Coral GPX compared with untreated or placebo models.

Most strikingly, Coral SOD demonstrated enzymatic activity up to seven times greater than the equivalent human enzyme under the testing conditions.

It is this exceptional natural potency that Margy’s is seeking to harness: using the survival mechanisms perfected by coral over millions of years to help modern skin defend itself against environmental and lifestyle-related stress.

An innovation that could only have emerged in Monaco

Margie Lombard began investing in the biotechnology programme in 2019, with the objective of creating a new generation of products focused on keeping skin healthy and resilient for longer rather than attempting to aggressively correct the signs of ageing later.

While the finished collection carries the Margy’s name, Benchaouir says its creation depended on a combination of expertise that is particularly concentrated in Monaco.

“Coraliotech has one area of expertise, the Scientific Centre of Monaco has another, and Margy’s brings its own knowledge and experience,” he said. “It is this combination that works.”

For Benchaouir, Revelation demonstrates what Monaco can achieve when its scientific institutions, private businesses and environmental priorities – led by Prince Albert II – converge around a shared project.

“There are many different elements in Monaco that demonstrate why this is exactly the kind of place where such research should begin, expand and be explored,” he said.

The results

Clinical and instrumental evaluations commissioned for the range reported reductions in the appearance of wrinkles of up to 22% after four weeks of serum use and up to 23% around the eyes following use of the eye treatment.

Margy’s also reports that internal testing showed an apparent reversal of two years of visible skin ageing after 14 days of using the Revelation programme.

The beginning of a biotechnology revolution

The implications of the project may ultimately extend beyond Revelation. Benchaouir believes cosmetics is at the beginning of a major transformation.

“Biotechnology is beginning to become extremely important within the global cosmetics industry,” he said. “We are only at the beginning of a biotechnology revolution in cosmetics. Until now, biotechnology has mainly been applied to pharmaceuticals.”

He believes one of the greatest opportunities lies in connecting academic discoveries with real-world applications.

“When it comes to coral, research organisations tend to focus on issues such as the effects of global warming on the oceans,” Benchaouir said. “That is, of course, extremely important. But researchers are not necessarily being encouraged to pursue specific practical applications arising from that work.”

Margy’s now plans to use the discoveries behind Revelation to progressively reshape its wider skincare portfolio – potentially making the Monaco-born coral complex a foundation of the brand’s future.

For Benchaouir, Margy’s is at the forefront of a new frontier in skincare.

“Wait another three to five years and I believe you will see biotechnology expand considerably throughout the cosmetics industry,” he said. “I am certain of that.”

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Main photo source: Margy’s Monte-Carlo