Auction house Wannenes will hold three sales in Monte Carlo on 6th and 7th July, bringing fine jewellery, luxury watches and designer handbags to the Hôtel Métropole, with pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Bvlgari, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Hermès among the highlights. Ahead of the sales, Monaco Life spoke with Teresa Scarlata, Head of the Jewellery Department and Director of the Monte Carlo office, who shared a preview of what collectors can expect.
The jewellery auction on 6th July brings together signed pieces from the 19th century to the present day, including lots by Mellerio dits Meller, Ravasco, Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Bvlgari, Buccellati and Boucheron, alongside a substantial collection of 19th-century snuff boxes in semi-precious stones and micro-mosaics.
Among the standout lots is a platinum ring set with an unheated Burmese ruby of close to 6 carats, accompanied by an SSEF certificate, and a gold ring featuring a 16.42-carat octagonal-cut sapphire from Ceylon, also untreated. A pair of Van Cleef & Arpels clip-on earrings, set with two large untreated sapphires from Ceylon and Burma, carries an estimate of €70,000 to €90,000. Elsewhere, a long Bvlgari gold chain from the Monete collection, set with seven coins depicting the Roman emperor Maximian Herculeus, is estimated at €65,000 to €85,000, while a 1930s gold, platinum and diamond bracelet attributed to the architect-jeweller Ravasco, its design echoing Milanese lace, carries an estimate of €35,000 to €45,000.
“Buyers are now much more selective and seek out the rarest and most distinctive items, which is why we take great care in selecting the lots we offer for auction,” Teresa Scarlata said. “Jewellery, watches and even handbags are now regarded as alternative investment assets that retain their value over the years. We can say that quality must be the cornerstone of our catalogues.”
Hermès handbags and a one-of-a-kind Gucci trunk
The ‘Sacs de Luxe’ sale brings together a private European collection of Hermès handbags, accessories and scarves, including Kelly and Birkin models in sought-after colours and leathers. A Birkin 35 in white Togo leather from 2004 is estimated at €7,000 to €11,000, and a Birkin 35 Crinoline from 2005, in burgundy leather and striped canvas, carries an estimate of €8,000 to €10,000.
The sale also features an ebony-coloured leather trunk by Gucci, created specifically for a member of an Arab royal family. “This item is virtually unique in the world and in mint condition,” Scarlata said. “It is a sale featuring carefully selected, high-quality items.”
A watch sale built for collectors of every taste
The watch auction on 7th July spans the world’s most prestigious names, including Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, de Bethune and Urwerk. “Here, too, we can find some interesting pieces to suit a wide range of tastes,” Scarlata said, pointing to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘City of Sails’ in titanium, one of a limited edition of 300 made for the Swiss team competing in the 2000 America’s Cup in Auckland, as a particular standout. Also on offer is a Harry Winston Opus V, numbered 17 of 45, in rose gold, estimated at €40,000 to €60,000, and two examples of the Urwerk UR-102 ‘Night Watch’, with estimates ranging from €25,000 to €90,000 depending on edition and finish.
Rarity over everything
Asked about current demand among collectors, Scarlata said interest remains concentrated on vintage, designer and rare pieces, as well as high-quality coloured gemstones, certified wherever possible. “I always advise my clients that when preparing to buy a gemstone, they should always request a certificate issued by a reputable, internationally recognised laboratory,” she said, “not least because the sums involved are often substantial, so it is essential to know exactly what you are acquiring.”
She also pointed to a shift affecting one part of the market. “Diamonds are currently suffering from the use and marketing of lab-grown diamonds, which are of much lower value for the same gemmological characteristics but which subsequently have no resale value,” she said. “If we are talking about stones as an investment, natural diamonds must certainly always be considered.”
As for who is buying, Scarlata said the auction house’s clientele resists easy categorisation. “There are no specific types of collectors, partly because the range we offer caters to the widest variety of tastes and interests,” she said. “Quality and rarity are the key factors, which is why there are no age or geographical restrictions.”
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Main photo: Bvlgari gold chain from the Monete collection and ebony-coloured leather trunk by Gucci, created specifically for a member of an Arab royal family