Month: July 2023

It might seem counterproductive to shut up shop when all the tourists come to town, but it’s a tradition that is deep-rooted in this part of the Mediterranean. Monaco Life explains the phenomena of “summer shutdowns”. 

Known colloquially as the “summer shutdowns”, many businesses – large and small – in Southern Europe shutter their doors for the entire month of August. This tradition has long perplexed holidaymakers from other parts of the world, who wonder why, in the midst of such a huge month for tourists, they would close up shop, missing out on potential big financial gains.  

The short answer is habit, but the reality is a bit more involved and has to do with several factors that have evolved and changed with each passing generation. 

WEATHER 

This may surprise many, but one of the primary reasons people in France and Italy shut their doors in August is the heat. Whilst many flock to these countries specifically for the warmth, by the time August rolls around, the heat, coupled with higher humidity, has taken a toll on locals.  

CUSTOM 

There was a time when factories closed in August, putting many people on the same holiday timetable. As the years passed, and the economies of France and Italy became more diversified, this was no longer a forced vacation, but it did become a habitual one.  

The idea that summer is for relaxation and play, and not work, has been deeply ingrained in the collective psyche, and this unshakable belief has led to most people thinking it inconceivable to not take the month off.  

The idea that all French go away in August isn’t exactly the case, though.

In fact, there are two distinct camps, namely the juilletistes who leave for July, and the aoûtiens who opt for August. For example, if someone grew up going away in July, then as adults, they tend to stick to that routine. A quirk, indeed, but one not without its charms.  

IT’S NORMAL 

Another reason for the closures is that the French and Italians like a good holiday just like everyone else. It’s rather silly of outsiders to think that just because they want to visit these wonderful places in summer that locals don’t want to get away with their families during this period too.  

Tourists can take comfort in knowing that even though a fair few shops, restaurants and facilities are closed, the big tourist attractions, like museums and churches, tend to remain open, so even if it’s trickier to find a baguette, a trip up the Eiffel Tower can still be had, no problem! 

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Photo source: Loic Barré, Unsplash

Found right in the heart of the Principality, covering the famous Port Hercule and a vibrant retail zone, La Condamine is where much of daily life occurs in Monaco.

La Condamine is to locals what Monte Carlo is to tourists: a place to hang out and explore, to shop and meet up. In short, it’s the beating heart of the Principality and is the third largest neighbourhood after Monte Carlo and the second port district of Fontvieille.   

Port Hercule, the more famous of Monaco’s two harbours, is a dream for the nautically minded. Boats of all shapes and sizes are docked in what is one of the most glamourous ports in the world, whose berths are often filled to capacity with incredible superyachts owned by the fabulously wealthy who come to appreciate the Principality and all it has to offer.   

It is also a hub for many local events and festivals, including the annual Christmas village, multiple fun fairs spread across the calendar year, fireworks shows and, for 2023, a new summer market space.  

Quai des Etats-Unis, with its celebrated Yacht Club de Monaco, runs down one side of the port, and the restaurant-lined Quai Antoine Ier faces it from the other side. In-between and backing up into a busy shopping and restaurant zone is the Route de la Piscine, with its fantastic open-air swimming pool, that houses the grandstands of the Monaco Grand Prix and many other eye-catching events.  

The area is buzzing with eateries that cater to families by day then transform into thumping nightclubs after dark, giving it the vibe that Monaco is always open for business.  

Up from the port is the Condamine Market – Le Marché de la Condamine – which is located just off the central traffic hub of Place d’Armes. Each morning, a farmers market crops up selling fresh produce destined for the tables of local restaurants and homes that night. There are also several other traders, such as florists and cheese makers, as well as a covered section, La Halle Gourmande, that serves up a selection of sit-down food options, including Monegasque specialties such as barbagiuans as well as the other regional favourites of pissaladière, socca and fougasse, alongside a thriving range of shops.  

The outdoor market is open all week, Tuesday to Saturday, from 7am to 3pm, with the additional hours of 6pm to 9.30pm for the indoor section. 

The best place to go to shop in the neighbourhood is Rue Caroline, the street that slopes up from the Avenue Albert Ier and is a sort of “main drag” for boutiques and restaurants. The side streets that run off the Rue Caroline are also filled with treasures, so give them the proper time to wander and explore to get the most out this special neighbourhood.   

For those who like to dive into the local scene, La Condamine is the place to be.   

Read Monaco Life’s other guides to the Principality’s neighbourhoods:

Getting to know Monaco: Monte Carlo, the centre of glamour and opulence

Getting to know Monaco: Le Rocher, The Rock of Monaco

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Featured photo: Leonardo Caetano, Unsplash