Following the launch of Zeffirino on the Rue du Portier earlier this summer, Monaco Life’s Niki Borisova has paid a visit to this celebration of Genoese cuisine, which is hoping to set itself apart from other Italian restaurants in the Principality through its authenticity and dedication to deep-rooted culinary traditions.
The story of Zeffirino begins in the Ligurian port city of Genoa in 1939, when the first trattoria-style incarnation of the brand of the 21st century was opened by Zeffirino Belloni under the name of L’Emiliana.
Over the years, the restaurant gained a reputation at home and abroad for its authentic Italian cuisine, which heralded and honoured the traditional dishes of the region. Frank Sinatra visited in 1984, a time by which the address had been renamed for its founder, and remained a lifelong fan of the unpretentious eatery.
Speaking to Monaco Life, Marco Fabbiani, Operations Manager at Zeffirino Monaco, describes how he is keen to retrace the legacy of the restaurant back to its humble start.
“Essentially, what we are doing with the expansion is revisiting the original concept from Genoa, taking it back to the roots,” he says.
Despite its international expansions and collaborations with the Monaco-based Giraudi Group, Zeffirino has largely remained a family affair; Belloni’s children and grandchildren have played a significant role in developing the brand, and Marco, Christiane, Sabrina and Lucia Belloni currently manage Zeffirino operations.
Genoese spirit in Monaco
The new Zeffirino restaurant in Monaco, situated on Rue du Portier near the Carré d’Or, has been welcoming in new patrons for the last two months.
This prestigious address and location was, in part, thanks to a partnership with the Giraudi Group, a well-known name in the hospitality industry, that facilitated this expansion into the Principality.
Founded by Riccardo Giraudi, the Group is perhaps most-recognised for the wildly popular Beefbar brand, which has branches in major cities and destinations around the world.
See more: Beefbar New York takes the Big Apple by storm
Giraudi’s collaboration with the Belloni family will bring Zeffirino’s traditional Italian cuisine to a broader audience, but the family is eager to retain the magic that has always surrounded the Zeffirino name.
“We are keeping 80% of the concept of the Giarudi Group, in terms of music, service and so on, but the remaining 20% will represent the original restaurant concept,” says Fabbiani. “We do not want another Italian restaurant; we want to keep the authentic spirit.”
Elegant yet inviting
Upon stepping into the restaurant, guests will immediately understand what Fabbiani is referring to.
There is an undeniably Monegasque elegance about the blending of wood, marble, cane and brushed brass, and yet it is still quintessentially Italian in essence.
The black and white retro photographs displayed throughout the restaurant transport you back in time and the open kitchen welcomes you in with the sense of openness and generosity often paired with Italian cookery and hospitality. Here, guests can watch their pasta being freshly prepared; this signature element is, of course, well-represented on the menu.
Executive Chef Thierry Paludetto, who has experience in Michelin-starred restaurants and has worked with the Giraudi Group extensively over the last two decades, tells Monaco Life, “We wanted to create an elaborate classic Italian culinary experience focused on simple, high-quality ingredients, as the quality of even one product determines the meal by 50%. This is challenging because, at Zeffirino, everything is prepared to the minute, requiring high-level techniques, concentration and preparation.”
He continues, “The most complex dish on the menu is the aubergine; I based it on the classic Italian parmigiana, but added a twist and different flavoured layers, which requires a certain level of cooking skills.”
Lunch, dinner and business
When Monaco Life visits Zeffirino, it is to sample the eatery’s business lunch, which is proving popular with the local clientele.
For a reasonable price of €34, Zeffirino’s business lunch includes a starter, main cours and a glass of wine. Monaco Life recommends the refreshing burrata and tomato salad, followed by any of the pasta options, but particularly the rigatoni gricia with guanciale, pecorino romano and pepper.
“A restaurant must have business lunch options,” says Fabbiani. “Business lunch provides a quick and easy solution in the day when people are busy.”
The best meal after pasta is dessert. A whole tray with a mouth-watering selection is brought out and Monaco Life samples the freshly-made pistachio ice cream with caramelised pistachios and the creamy caramel flan.
The à la carte menu for dinner and lunch offers more options.
“My favourite dish from the menu is the cherry tomato tart with pesto shortbread, as this is a meal I created two years ago and it is original with Italian products,” shared Paludetto.
The wine cellar and the softly-lit bar add to the restaurant’s appeal, making it suitable for casual dining and special events. The cocktail menu features Italian creations such as the Ligurian Negroni or the Zeffi’ Spritz. Wine is probably as important as food in Italian culture, and Zeffirino offers a comprehensive wine list featuring selections from Italy and France.
International addresses
Earlier this summer, a Paris branch of Zeffirino was opened in the city’s eighth arrondissement. Further expansion plans include the launch of an additional restaurant in Istanbul in four months’ time, as well as in New York, Prague and possibly in Cyprus in the future.
To see more of Zeffirino, watch the Monaco Life Instagram reel below:
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Photo credit: Marion Butet Studios