13 ° C
Profile

Month: April 2023

Four little-known French villages near Monaco that are worth a visit

by: Elsa Carpenter
09/04/2023
villages near monaco

A sunny spring day is the perfect opportunity to hop in the car and take a drive out to some of the picturesque towns and villages that line the mountains above Monaco. 

A winding 30-minute drive from the centre of Monaco will take you to Gorbio (pictured above), a place where the homes of its residents look like they’ve been hewn from the rock they stand on. There’s plenty of history within this little village due to the many counts and aristocratic families who built châteaux within its boundaries over time, such at the Château des Lascaris from Ventimiglia in the 12th century and the Malaussène of Aix-en-Provence in the 17th.  

A 300-year-old elm tree shades much of the sleepy village square. It isn’t always quiet place though, as, come summer, a lively schedule of traditional festivals takes place. 

There’s lots of hiking and mountain trails to be found nearby, such as the Tour de Mont Gros and the Route de Bausson, which will lead you to our next destination… 

Perched at almost 800 metres above sea level and designated one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France, Saint-Agnès has an air of the medieval about it thanks to the many crafts workshops that line its streets. The 12th century château and its gardens are worth a visit, if only for the stunning views offered from the vantage point high on the cliffs.  

Beneath the village lies the remains of a fort that was the most southerly bastion of the Maginot Line, a network of fortifications dating back to WWII. Today it is a museum. 

At almost 800 metres above sea level, Saint-Agnès is Europe's highest coastal village. Photo: Pango Visual
At almost 800 metres above sea level, Saint-Agnès is Europe’s highest coastal village. Photo: Pango Visual

Further inland and on the road to the saffron-producing town of Sospel is Castillon. You might not realise when first visiting the village, given its charming, traditional-looking houses, but this is actually one of the “youngest” villages in France. It was almost entirely destroyed by an earthquake in the 19th century and then again by bombing during WWII, but was rebuilt thanks to American funding some 70 years ago.  

Its green shutters are a reflection of the rich greenery that surrounds the village, which is found in a Natura 2000 zone. Hiking is aplenty up here. A two-hour walk along an old mule track will take visitors back to Saint-Agnès while a trek through the Forêt de l’Ubac Foran offers incredible views from the top. 

New, but old too… Castillon joins up with Saint-Agnès via an old mule trail through the hills. Photo: Drone de Regard

Our final stop is Saorge, just over an hour in the car from the Principality. Found in the Vallée de la Roya, Saorge is known for two things: its beautiful Franciscan monastery and how easily this beautiful village can be missed from the road if you aren’t looking out for it. It can only truly be reached on foot; its old, narrow streets just aren’t suited to cars. But that makes it all the more special.  

The Baroque monastery, complete with its 17th century frescos and typical monastic gardens, has been given a protected status under the Monuments Nationaux classification. Today, in the place of monks, it is a haven for writers and artists throughout the spring and summer months. It is open to the general public too with guided tours on offer during high season. 

For naturists, this village is a must-see – and must-swim – destination on the French Riviera. The crystal clear waters of the Roya make for ideal wild swimming conditions, particularly at the Bain du Sémite. What are you waiting for?  

 

Sign up for the Monaco Life newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. 

 

Main photo credit: Vincent Jacques

Johnny Depp to open Cannes Film Festival, marking comeback after infamous defamation trial

by: Stephanie Horsman
09/04/2023

Historical film Jeanne du Barry starring actor Johnny Depp will open the Cannes Film Festival this year, his first time film since the end of his highly publicised defamation trial with ex-wife Amber Heard.

The Cannes Film Festival will set the scene for the dramatic return to the screen of Johnny Depp, who was mired in controversy over a defamation case between him and his ex-wife Amber Heard that had many wondering if the actor could recover from the ugliness of the trial.

The film, entitled Jeanne du Barry, is a biopic tale of the life of Louis XV’s working class, and working girl, lover who climbed her way up the social ladder against all odds to become King’s favourite, scandalising his court as his last official mistress.

The drama was directed by Maïwenn, who is a Cannes darling, having screened two of her other films, Mon Roi and Polisse, at the prestigious festival. She also plays the starring role against Depp’s Louis VX, who incidentally had to learn French for the film. He is also a co-producer under his company IN2 along with Why Not Productions.

The last time Depp was cast in a film role was in 2020’s Minamata, which premiered at the Berlin Film Festival. Depp was already embroiled in court cases at the time, losing a March 2021 libel suit against UK newspaper The Sun for calling him a wife-beater. This was followed up by a very public legal battle against his ex-wife who accused him of domestic abuse in an op-ed piece. He won the case, and the two parties settled, but the event left a bad taste in the mouths of many.

Jeanne du Barry will open in French cinemas the same day as the premiere and is expected to join Martin Scorsese’s Killers of the Flower Moon and Disney’s Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny when the official selction list is revealed on 13th April.

Sign up for the Monaco Life newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. 

 

 

Football: Monaco squander lead to draw at Nantes

by: Luke Entwistle
09/04/2023
Monaco's Axel Disasi v Nantes

AS Monaco squandered a two-goal advantage against Nantes (2-2) on Sunday as they squandered their chance to close the gap to the podium.

Les Monégasuqes were looking for a third consecutive win, and the signs were positive in the opening exchanges.

Axel Disasi gave Monaco the lead early in the first half, latching onto Caio Henrique’s corner, controlling on his chest, and blasting into the roof of the net on the half-volley.

The Principality club then doubled their account shortly later, and it was once again an Henrique corner that created carnage in the Nantes box. This time, Alban Lafont missed his interception with the ball deflecting off Eliot Matazo and into the goal.

“It is clearly two points lost.”

But as they often have done throughout the season, Monaco then took their foot off the pedal and were punished. Mostafa Mohamed halved the deficit with a headed effort. However, Monaco then had the chance to restore their two-goal cushion, but Wissam Ben Yedder’s goal-bound effort was headed clear by the recovering defender.

Nantes, who should have been tiring physically after competing in the Coupe de France in midweek, then levelled through substitute Ludovic Blas. Les Canaris almost found a winner, but Mohamed’s effort was rightly ruled out for a tight offside.

“We had the match in our hands, and we had the chances to kill the match. It is clearly two-point lost this afternoon. We leave the Beaujoire with a very bitter taste. We’ve missed the chance to close the gap to Lens and Marseille,” said Disasi post-match. Monaco next face Lorient next Sunday at the Stade Louis II.

 

Sign up for the Monaco Life newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. 

Photo by AS Monaco

Tennis: Hugo Nys and Lucas Caterina fail to qualify as Monte-Carlo Masters gets underway

by: Luke Entwistle
09/04/2023
Hugo Nys at the MCCC

Hugo Nys and Lucas Caterina both lost their Monte-Carlo Masters qualifying ties on Saturday, meaning that Valentin Vacherot will be the only Monégasque competing in the competition. 

Nys, an Australian Open doubles finalist earlier this year, had to pass through the qualifying rounds to make it into the final draw, but he fell at the first hurdle at the Monte-Carlo Country Club.

The Monaco player faced a tough tie against Finnish player Emil Ruusuvuori, and succumbed in straight sets (6-3, 6-4). Nys is a specialist doubles player, and he will still have the chance to go far in the competition in that discipline, alongside Polish partner Jan Zielinski.

Romain Arneodo, another member of Monaco’s Davis Cup team, will also compete in the doubles alongside Austrian partner Tristan-Samuel Weissborn. However, they face a tricky opening match against a double team that includes Alexander Zverev.

Later in the day, Lucas Caterina lost against Ugo Humbert (6-7, 4-6), meaning that both Monégasques exit the competition at the first hurdle. Vacherot is therefore the only singles player remaining in the tournament after he received a wildcard to compete in the tournament. Vacherot will learn the identity of his first opponent upon the completion of the qualifying rounds.

 

 

Sign up for the Monaco Life newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. 

Photo by Manuel Vitali

Em Sherif reopens in Hôtel de Paris with renewed menu and live music

by: Cassandra Tanti
08/04/2023

The acclaimed Em Sherif Monte-Carlo has returned for a new season in Monaco’s most famous hotel, featuring a refined menu by Chef Yasmina Hayek that combines luxury and tradition.

The internationally-renowned restaurant, with its origins in Beirut, opened its doors in the Hôtel de Paris in April 2022 and quickly forged a reputation among locals and international visitors as a culinary destination in Monaco.

The menu is a celebration of Lebanese culture and cuisine with moreish staples like hummus, falafel, beef kibbet and Fattoush among the mezze.

But this is Monaco, so Chef Yasmina Hayek has delivered on expectations, elevating her spice-rich offerings with prime ingredients like wagyu hummus, Lebanese beef tartare, and a delicate marinated yellowtail with green chili and citrus dressing. The starter menu has no less than 30 mezze plates, a veritable smorgasbord that is destined to be shared.

Em Sherif offers an extensive menu that mixes luxury and tradition. Photo source: SBM

The main plates follow the same philosophy – last season’s best selling dishes like slow cooked lamb shoulder and whole seabass stuff with caramelised rice sit alongside semolina pearls with caviar or lobster, wagyu beef skewers, and Beluga caviar served with katayef Lebanese blinis, homemade sumac chips and lebneh.

“You will always find the basis of Em Sherif wherever you go, such as hummus, mutabbal, fattet, and fattoush… real staples of Lebanese cuisine,” Chef Hayek told Monaco Life during a special opening lunch on 4th April. “But you will also find new additions to the menu that we didn’t have last year like the grills, more salads, and different mains. We also introduced luxury products like caviar, lobster, truffle, wagyu beef, and raw fish to have a more balanced experience.”

The desserts are a celebration of the rich, sweet flavours of Lebanon, including Em Sherif’s signature pistachio baklava, an éclair with date cream infused with black tea and salted caramel, and a light citrus semolina cake with almond milk ice cream.

Em Sherif baklava, photo source: SBM

Where Lebanon meets the Mediterranean in a luxurious hotel

It is a culinary journey to the homeland of Chef Yasmina Hayek, who trained at the Institut Paul Bocuse and who now has a leading role at many of the family restaurants first initiated by her mother, Mireille Hayek, in 2011.

While Em Sherif Monte-Carlo lie sleeping during the cooler winter months, Chef Hayek was busy opening a new Em Sherif in Doha. It was hot on the heels of a restaurant opening in Abu Dhabi and London, with further expansion planned throughout the Middle East.

The mother-daughter team is clearly a winning formula. The restaurant group received the ‘Art and Hospitality Award 2023’ earlier this year, and is ranked ‘No. 20 Middle East North Africa’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023’.

Chef Hayek says she is proud to bring her heritage cuisine to both those who love it, and others who are discovering it for the first time.

“The biggest challenge is to satisfy both clientele: those who know Em Sherif worldwide and come for the cuisine, and those who don’t know Lebanese food but come to feel satisfied and have a good time around the table,” revealed Chef Hayek.

The Em Sherif terrace overlooks the Mediterranean Sea and The Rock. Photo source: SBM

New this year: Live music

If the food weren’t enough to plunge you into the divine universe of Lebanon, then the sounds of international artist Faylasuf surely will, with his electronic influences and Arab-Andalusian inspirations.

From now until 30th September, Em Sherif Monte-Carlo will be featuring a brand-new musical programme with DJ, percussion, saxophonist and female vocalist performing to the rhythm of Faylasuf.

There’s also a Chicha Lounge and signature cocktails to round out the exclusive oriental experience.

Em Sherif Monte-Carlo is open from Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. Bookings can be made online, by phone on +377 98 06 88 75, or email emsherifmc@sbm.mc

 

See more in our experience at Em Sherif in our Instagram video below…

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Monaco Life (@monacolife_)

 

Do you have an event in Monaco or the French Riviera that you would like us to include in our What’s On section and events calendar? Please email editor@monacolife.net.

 

Remembering Picasso’s life on the French Riviera on 50th anniversary of his death

by: Stephanie Horsman
08/04/2023

Arguably the most famous and influential artist of the 20th century, Pablo Picasso made the Côte d’Azur his home for nearly three decades. On the 50th anniversary of his death, we look back at how his later life was sculpted by a new-found creativity brought on by his move to the land of sun, sea and sand.

Pablo Picasso’s interest in the Côte d’Azur and its famous light began back in the 1920’s when he, like many artists, writers and intellectuals, was living in Paris. The appeal may have remained entirely unexplored had it not been for World War II and the German occupation of the city he lived in and loved.

After the war, looking for inspiration and an escape from the dreariness of the post-war era, Picasso, who was in his mid 60s, and his lover Françoise Gilot made their way south, eventually landing in the South of France.

He was already a world-renowned artist whose accomplishments made him a household name, but the story doesn’t end with a nice retirement on the beach. The region invigorated him, and he began a prolific period where he not only painted but started to dabble in ceramics and sculpting at the Vallauris studio of Georges and Suzanne Ramié. He was so enthralled by the village, he moved there a year later, and created his own space where he created beautiful pieces with his signature style, incorporating Greco-Roman touches from the region’s history.

He felt a kinship to the area, finding it similar in ways to his native Spain, which may have contributed to his happiness, and often depicted bulls in his art, a symbol of Spain, yes, but also of Southern France, where bullfighting was still a popular pastime.

Picasso painting in the Chapel of Vallauris

In 1952, he moved to Cannes with the woman he would spend the rest of his life with, Jacqueline Roque, before moving on to Aix-en-Provence and then settling in his last home in Mougins. Here he continued to be productive until the end of his life, with an estimated 50,000 works credited to his name.

Fifty years after his death on 8th April 1973, the impact of his presence is still felt locally. The Picasso Museum in Antibes, where he also worked for a time, supports his legacy and draws in tourists from around the globe.

Queues line up to see his La Guerre et la Paix fresco at the church in Vallauris as well as L’homme au Moutonstatue in the village square, and Paloma Beach in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat proudly boasts of their connection to the artist, who used to spend time there with his family. In fact, the beach is named after Picasso’s daughter.

Additionally, though not his own work, his image is a prominent part of the Andres Villers Museum of Photography in Mougins, where a series of photos of the artist are exhibited.

Even recently, stashes of Picasso works cropped up, including a case where an elderly couple in Mouans-Sartoux were convicted of concealing stolen property in 2016 after 271 unsigned Picassos were found hidden in a cupboard in their home for 40 years.

Most don’t need an excuse to celebrate the life of Pablo Picasso, but on this milestone anniversary of his death, why not take time to retrace his footsteps and see the places he himself found so inspirational.

 

Sign up for the Monaco Life newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. 

 

Feature photo: Brigitte Bardot and Pablo Picasso.